The ajoblanco, a chilled almond soup, is a timeless summer classic in Malaga. In the past, it was a staple dish during the hot months—both affordable and nutritious. Almonds, a humble yet versatile nut, were always within reach, even in the poorest rural homes. A quick walk to the nearest almond tree was all it took to gather the key ingredient for this refreshing delicacy. Traditionally, it’s garnished with grapes, though finding the original Malaga variety has become increasingly rare.

A little excursion

A Simple Recipe With a Rich History

Making ajoblanco may seem simple today, but it’s worth remembering the effort involved in the kitchens of our grandmothers and great-grandmothers. Without modern electric mixers, they relied on a mortar and pestle to create the silky almond paste that forms the base of the soup. This was no easy task! But these women, accustomed to using this tool daily, managed to transform even the humblest ingredients into culinary delights through sheer skill and perseverance.

 

Shelling almonds

The Secret Ingredient: Fresh Green Almonds

By this time of year, in June, we harvest fresh green almonds from our trees. These tender, milky, and delicate nuts (once you peel away their fuzzy green shells) are the key to achieving a creamy and mild ajoblanco. Of course, dry almonds work perfectly well too, but if you can get your hands on fresh ones, they take the soup to another level. Unfortunately, fresh almonds are only available for a short period and are rarely found in markets, making them a seasonal treasure.

A Timeless Tradition

At home, we still use an old “clavo”—a heavy iron stick passed down through generations—to shell almonds. Polished smooth by years of work, this tool is a testament to the hands of the women who used it before me. As a child, I’d sit beside them, back against the wall and a flat stone on my lap, eagerly trying to crack almonds. I wasn’t very skilled, and my clumsy attempts often ended in crushed fingers! Yet, it was all part of the learning process, a small but memorable rite of passage in the kitchen.

Conclusion

The ajoblanco isn’t just a dish; it’s a link to Malaga’s culinary heritage and the lives of those who came before us. Each bowl tells a story—of almond trees, hardworking hands, and the creativity of past generations who made magic with simple ingredients. So, next time you try this recipe, take a moment to appreciate the history behind it. And if you’re feeling adventurous, try shelling the almonds yourself—crushed fingers and all!